The Danish Island That Makes More Energy Than It Uses Is Also a Beautiful Paradise

I pedal a bucolic landscape on the Danish island of Aeroe, passing thatched homes with rose- and apple tree-filled gardens and pasturelands that stretch toward the sea. A pair of horses graze by the roadside as I zoom past, meandering along the quiet single-lane roads. My surroundings shift from dense forest, to wetlands, to beaches—all the varied landscapes of this barely-20 mile-long island in the Baltic Sea. Noticing a field of solar panels, and then spying the twirling propellers of wind turbines in the distance, I veer towards my destination: Aeroskobing, the island’s capital.

I roll into a charming port town, abundant with cobblestone lanes lined with cast iron street lamps, and centuries-old half-timbered buildings painted in colors ranging from baby blue to burnt orange. Vying for my attention are an array of shops, some selling their products right outside the front door on the honor system. I follow the aroma of cinnamon rolls emanating from a bakery where residents cram their bicycle baskets with loaves of dark rye and sourdough. But despite the quaintness, there’s an energy here that feels decidedly modern. The town buzzes with a locavore-centric entrepreneurial spirit, as does the rest of the island, wholeheartedly championing a green consciousness.

Here’s how to make the most of a visit to Aeroe.

The bikeable roads networking Aeroe—as well as the free buses outfitted with bike racks—make it easy to get around without a car, reducing your carbon footprint. And then there are those wind turbines on the coast, which actually generate 140% of the island’s electricity; the excess energy powers Ellen, an electric ferry. You’ll find that most of the island is heated, cooled, and powered by renewable energy. Solar and biomass fuel generators heat and cool all the island’s public buildings, and most homes are heated with solar energy, too. In fact, the EU recognized Aeroe for its sustainability a few years ago. And Aeroe (along with the entire archipelago it belongs to) was just designated a UNESCO Global Geopark. The island’s future is only going to be more sustainable, too; Aeroe is planning to become carbon neutral and use only its own renewable energy by 2025, and to eliminate fossil fuels by 2030.

Aeroe was originally created as a result of a dramatic rise in sea levels after the last Ice Age. Consequently, the landscape is peppered with distinctive, picturesque features accessible by bicycle or along walking paths.

For example, Voderup Klint, a craggy bluff that rises up almost 110 feet from a rocky beach, was formed by the deposits left by glaciers and then the slip-sliding of clay layers as rainwater seeped through. This breathtaking locale consists of a series of grassy terraces in a formation resembling stairs. With a few picnic tables, it’s perfect for a scenic lunch or stellar sunset viewing. Walk along the paths and soak up the sea views, or search for a variety of fauna, such as field lizards or bell frogs, as well as the reeds, thistles, and other plants that thrive in this protected environment. Personally, however, I found myself so entranced by the sweeping views of sky and sea that it was hard to move from my picnic table.

Another treasured nature venue is Vitsoe, an expansive wetland of marshes and meadows. Bird watchers will especially enjoy ambling around the placid lakes, hoping to spy any of the migrating species that breed here, including northern lapwings and little grebes.

Eriks Hale, a beach just beyond the maritime town of Marstal on a thin spit of land, is also worth a visit. It curves into the Baltic Sea with its waves tumbling on one shore, and the waters of a calm lagoon lapping along the opposite shore. Here, Danish ranger and edible plants expert Nils Orum takes small groups on foraging walks, offering lessons on the area’s biodiversity. “My aim with these walks is to inspire people to take care of the abundant edible plants found along Denmark’s shores,” says Orum. On his two-hour-some trek, Orum points out the flora and lets you sample edible plants, such as sea cress, beach heritage, and beach cabbage. Call or email to sign up for a guided walk or workshop with Orum: +45-6128-6252 or nils@vesteraas.dk.

The Geopark designation is also all about using natural resources sustainably, promoting a respect for the environment, and fostering a link between local communities and the planet. Sustainable development within geoparks helps nurture local makers. These are some of the small businesses that highlight the island’s sustainable and eco side.

Here you’ll find 20 different soaps with tantalizing scents such as rosemary, lemongrass, and lavender. Relying on the traditional soap making techniques, this company produces all-natural, organic soaps made with herbs and flowers grown on property, along with essential oils and seaweed. Visitors can stroll around the garden, taking in the many scents, and tour the workshop. Kids can work with bags of finished soap pieces, using a cookie cutter to make all sorts of shapes.

Sourcing organic barley from Aeroe’s farms and obtaining the wort for the initial distillation from their own brewery across the street, this distillery in Aeroeskobing is housed in a renovated 19th century wash house. Among its spirits, the Aeroe Local Oak Single Malt Whisky is their most locally sourced product, aging in oak barrels crafted from Aeroe’s trees that have to be felled anyway. The best way to enjoy your visit is by signing up for a 45-minute tasting or a guided tour that also includes sampling two spirits. After the tour, if you decide to purchase any whisky of your own, you can enjoy it in the distillery’s cobblestone courtyard, surrounded by honeysuckle, ferns, and trees.

In Aeroskobing, this award-winning confectionary follows a traditional recipe to produce handmade licorice treats. Using only natural ingredients, including freeze-dried berries, whole grain rice flour, natural oils, and raw licorice, owner Claus Hattesen aims to reduce the sugar content while also providing scrumptious sensory delights with bright colors and flavors. Aside from licorice-flavored items, there's a rainbow of others to sample, including chocolate, pineapple-coconut, and gooseberry. On the twice weekly tours, you’ll learn how the confections are made, taste at least six of these treats, and also get a glimpse of the factory.

“The good thing about living on a small Island is also that 50% of our employees live within walking distance and, therefore, don’t take the car to work,” says Hatteson. How’s that for eco-friendly?

Sitting beside the port in Aeroskobing, this unassuming brick restaurant couldn’t be more aptly named. The menu is influenced by the backgrounds of the husband and wife co-owners, who hail from Berlin and Sydney, respectively. Chef Mario and Jaraya have a passion for sustainability, and locally sourcing ingredients for their cuisine. Annually, they buy one cow—for the meat on their menu—from Lars, an Aeroe biologist and farmer who grazes the cattle on regenerated land. “We were always interested in sustainability, especially having worked in gastronomy for some time and seeing bad practices. Our commitment to sustainability was at the forefront of the concept of our business, and meeting Lars was the cherry on the top,” says Jaraya.

The restaurant serves a delectable five-course dinner menu that’s influenced by the owners’ homelands. For example, their menu has included a version of an Australian classic, sticky toffee pudding, but substituting Aeroe plums for dates, and serving it with a plum sorbet. In the spring, many parts of Germany celebrate white asparagus season, inspiring Kraut and Koala to serve up light white asparagus bouillon with sea trout balloutine and a white asparagus espuma.

Set along Kirkestraade, a walking street in the town of Marstal, Marstang Mad & Vin (co-owned and run by Camilla Sommerfelt and Ida Munter) is a warm and welcoming restaurant serving simple, aesthetically delightful cuisine. The warm welcome comes from personal touches; for example, as I sat outside sipping a glass of Grauburgunder from Germany, Sommerfelt handed me a blanket because I looked a bit chilled.

The creative three-course dinner menu changes weekly, based on what they can source locally. For example, the menu might include cod carpaccio with sea buckthorn; crispy oyster mushrooms grown in leftover coffee grounds from the restaurant’s cafe; and a brioche with blackcurrants, buttermilk parfait, and whipped honey. Most of the ingredients come from Aeroe, including produce, herbs, and proteins (such as lamb, beef, fish or shellfish). “Working on sustainability as a community has definitely inspired us,” says Sommerfelt. “There’s absolutely no question that we all have to make conscious decisions to do more, and for us that’s to choose local, which is only possible because of the quality ingredients that very passionate and skilled people produce on our island.” And no matter what they serve, you’ll find one of their more than two dozen European wines, some on tap, that pair well with your meal.

Just a minute from Aeroskobing’s harbor, this cafe and shop has an inventory revolving around high-quality products sourced mostly from the island. Wander inside the shop with its multitude of shelves and you’re bound to find something of interest, such as a liqueur with local apples and pears, pumpkin ketchup made with local produce, and marmalade composed of gooseberries and pickled wild onions—all picked on the island. Aside from consumables, you can buy Aeroe Soap, notecards produced on an old fashioned letterpress, and much more.

Serving lunch that includes homemade waffles and charcuterie with local meat and Danish cheeses, the cafe has a cozy interior, furnished with vintage and second-hand items. Or eat outside in the backyard surrounded by edible organic flowers, tomato plants, and herbs such as fennel and dill.

Located in a whitewashed, red-trimmed building dating back to the late 1800s, this brewery produces 20 different beers, eight of them organic. The brewery’s signature product, which also comes in an organic variety, is Aeroe No. 5 Walnut, referencing the island’s many walnut trees. Ever eco-conscious, they use the leftovers from beer brewing to make beer chips, and as animal feed. For an in-depth experience, there’s a tasting where you can sample five different beers, or take a tour where you’ll find out about the brewing process and the history of the brewery. You can enjoy your drink in the Beer Room with its exposed brick walls or outside beside the garden at one of the umbrella-shaded tables. You can also order a barbecue lunch, or snack on a slice of homemade beer cake made with organic imperial stout.

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