The Hippest Neighborhoods in Paris Have All the Charm and None of the Tourists

As a resident of Paris for five years, these are my recommendations for those who want to experience the bars, restaurants, and quaint corners of Paris where locals actually hang out. Plus, I asked some Parisians for their favorite haunts, too.

Fresh produce from Roots and a neighborhood sunset off the metro stop Charonne. | Photo by Vicki Denig
Fresh produce from Roots and a neighborhood sunset off the metro stop Charonne. | Photo by Vicki Denig

Paris regularly holds a top spot among most-visited city lists around the world, and it’s really no surprise why. Beloved by European residents and internationals alike, the city’s synonymy with historic museums, rich gastronomy, and countless artisanal boutiques promises something for every type of traveler out there—though few visitors actually experience the City of Lights like the locals do, even though all you have to do is veer a bit off the beaten path.

I’ve lived between New York and Paris for five years now—and have been going back and forth for the better part of ten—and I can confidently say that there’s so much more to the city than meets the eye. Don’t get me wrong;I firmly believe that sticking within the city’s more popular districts can still offer a great time. But for those looking to dig a bit deeper into its more authentic side—think wine bars, restaurants, and quaint corners where locals actually hang out—scoping out neighborhoods beyond Saint-Germain and the Marais is a great place to start.

Best of all? Paris is actually quite small, and the city’s underground métro system is both safe and reliable. Venturing into a new ‘hood will likely take you less than 20 minutes, and doing so doesn’t cost much more than a 2-euro coin. In addition to sharing my own personal favorites, I’ve enlisted the help of some locals and business owners to shed light on their top hangouts in slightly off-the-beaten-path areas.

Drugheria Italiana exterior and coffee at Breizh Café Charonne metro Paris
Drugheria Italiana exterior and coffee at Breizh Café off the Charonne metro stop.

Belleville: For restaurant scenesters

Situated in the northeastern part of Paris, Belleville has long been one of the city's most creative, multicultural neighborhoods. The area offers a wealth of hidden gem restaurants, shops, and bars, as well as two massive parks, art galleries, and tons of street art (check out rue Dénoyez for some of its most famous murals). However, it’s the neighborhood’s diverse food scene that tends to keep the locals coming back for more. “For restaurant scenesters in Paris, all roads lead to Belleville,” says Paris-based writer Caitlin Gunther, who describes the quartier as her favorite place to be hungry.

“It's not one of the obvious tourist destinations flanking the Seine, but if you're staying in the center, it's worth the schlep,” she says, noting that the neighborhood was formed by waves of immigrant communities, rendering it one of the most compelling areas for eating, drinking, and shopping. Alexandra Weinress, expat art industry professional and founder of The Seen Paris, agrees. “People from all corners of the world and all walks of life share a pocket of the city [in Belleville], which is why you can find everything from amazing Chinese food, karaoke, couscous, hipster wine bars, and independent shops and galleries all within a few blocks,” she shares.

Some local favorites? Weinress cites Kissproof as one of her favorite cocktail bars, as well as La Cave de Belleville for wine and Raviolis Nord-Est for dumplings (“I go at least once a week,” she reveals). For bites, Gunther recommends Soces, Lao Siam, and Buttes Snack Bar, as well as Liquiderie, La Cale, and Combat for drinks.

Beyond eating and drinking, Weinress implores visitors to check out the neighborhood’s bustling art scene. “Galerie Crèvecœur features some exciting, emerging artistic talent, and for music lovers, La Maroquinerie is one of my favorite venues to see indie acts in an intimate space,” she affirms.

COMETS Cafe off the Charonne metro stop and a bicycle in Bellevue Paris
COMETS Cafe off the Charonne metro stop and a bicycle in the Bellevue neighborhood. | Photo by Vicki Denig

Batignolles: For cobblestone charm 

Located a straight shot across the map from Belleville, the Batignolles neighborhood of Paris embodies a small village spirit right in the heart of the city center. Situated in the city’s quiet 17th arrondissement, this leafy, tranquil neighborhood offers a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of urban life, while also featuring a number of great places to eat and drink, plus countless open-air spaces.

Weinress reveals that like Belleville, Batignolles was once an independent commune and wasn’t officially annexed as part of the city until 1860. “It still retains a lot of its village-like charm, remaining overwhelmingly residential and featuring a series of narrow cobblestone streets,” she says, equally describing the neighborhood as historically working class and quaint, with many independent boutiques and restaurants dotting its streets. Prior to relocating to the south of France, Ashley Donahey, founder of Two Worlds Whiskey, called the neighborhood home for a number of years, and, if she were ever to move back, says she would return to the same charming area.

Donahey cites the eponymous Square des Batignolles as her favorite park in Paris, as well as nearby Café Dose as her former go-to spot to work from home. Weinress highlights Rue des Dames as one of her favored streets in the area, thanks to its abundance of small, family-owned restaurants—a favorite of hers being Restaurant Janine, which is known for its signature French fare. Additionally, Donahey cites Les Amateurs as a fabulous spot for apéros, as well as neighborhood gem Rooster by Frédéric Duca as “an absolute must-visit restaurant where you'll get Michelin-quality food in an elegant, yet cozy ambiance.”

Église Sainte-Marie-des-Batignolles,
Église Sainte-Marie-des-Batignolles, Place du Docteur-Félix-Lobligeois, Paris
wine window at septime restaurant in paris
The restaurant Septime on 80 Rue de Charonne. | Photo by Vicki Denig.

Métro Roulette: Charonne

For food and wine lovers in the know, Paris’ 11th arrondissement isn’t much of a secret. Bordered by Place de la République, Bastille, and Nation, this large arrondissement has long been adored for its shopping, nightlife, and ever-evolving dining scene, though its large size often causes visitors to concentrate around certain areas—Bastille and République, to be specific. However, there’s so much more to be discovered on the tiny streets of the 11th arrondissement than its major métro hubs and public spaces, which is why I’m recommending a pilgrimage to my personal Parisian métro stop: Charonne.

Located on the limits of where the 11th meets the 20th, the streets around the Charonne métro stop offer myriad places to eat, drink, and shop. COMETS Café & Disques pours some of the best coffee in Paris, and just a few doors down, Barrio Meshica serves up great tacos and margaritas (a rarity in the city). For those looking for neighborhood shopping, simply strolling down the beginning part of rue de Charonne is a no brainer—and you’d be remiss to not try the fresh produce at Roots, dropped off daily by nearby local farmers.

Drogheria Italiana and fresh produce from Roots in Paris
Drogheria Italiana and fresh produce from Roots. | Photo by Vicki Denig

But don’t just take it from me. Daniela Lavadenz, owner of Le Saint Sebastien also chose the Charonne métro as her home base. She and her husband Thomas Deck, owner of the local Deck & Donohue brewery, moved to the area ten years ago and never looked back. “It is not a fancy neighborhood but it is quite endearing, with a village sort of vibe,” she says, while also citing its accessibility to more popular areas in the 11th, 3rd, 4th, and 20th arrondissements. “In addition to a wide array of food options, from a pizza at Drogheria Italiana to a special dinner at Septime or Saturday lunch Breizh Café (créperie), you can also find nice off-the-grid parks to relax or have an apéro, like the improbable square Colbert,” she says.

Moral of the story? There’s so much more to Paris than its central neighborhoods, and a quick venture off the beaten path promises to enrich your next visit in more ways than not—all it takes is a bit of curiosity and a métro ticket.