All Black Everything: A Black Traveler's Guide to Toronto, Canada

The first time I set foot into Toronto, I was a pre-teen dazzled by its friendliness and international vibe. I felt such a strong connection to the city that I continued visiting throughout my 20s, hopping on the hour-and-a-half flights from my hometown of Chicago. Located on the shores of Lake Ontario and dotted with skyscrapers, Toronto reminded me of my own city, but with an openness that allowed me to more easily connect with communities across the African diaspora.

On my trips, I immersed myself in Toronto’s vibrant Caribbean and African scene, hanging out in restaurants, clubs, and art hubs that reflected these cultures. And as my career as a professional travel writer took shape over the years, I’ve always jumped at the chance to showcase the city’s lasting appeal to Black travelers and locals alike.

Of course, this guide is far from comprehensive, but the businesses, historical sites, and, most importantly, the people showcased below should give you a pretty good peek into Toronto’s endlessly rich Black history and culture. Here’s everything you need to know to plan your next trip up to Ontario’s storied capital city.

Founded in 1793 as the town of York and renamed and incorporated as the city of Toronto in 1834, Toronto has been a home to Black communities since the 1600s. Many Black Torontonians can trace their lineage back to the end of the American Revolution in 1783, when white Loyalists from the US fled the newly independent country and brought 2,000 enslaved Africans with them to upper Ontario. Between 1800 and 1865, as American slavery reached its height, approximately 30,000 Black people arrived in Canada through the Underground Railroad, a network of secret routes that enslaved Africans used to escape the American South.

A change in Canadian immigration policies in the 1960s also resulted in a large migration of people from the Caribbean and Africa. Today, the city boasts the largest Black population in Canada with 265,005 Black residents, according to the 2021 census. Toronto’s long history of Black emigration has helped to create what today is a cultural mecca of restaurants, galleries, music venues, and museums highlighting Black heritage and history and owned by Black residents.

101 Huron St.
Founded in 1826 by 12 Black residents who escaped slavery, the First Baptist Church of Toronto is the oldest Black institution in the city. I especially love The church’s Heritage Room, which documents Black history with historical accounts, artifacts, and photos; I think this little alcove contains more detailed Black histories than many of the larger institutions. Today, the church continues to serve as a community cornerstone and there’s a warm reception for any visitor. If you visit during the summer, you might have a chance to stop by the annual picnic, which features family games and food.

East from Oakwood Ave.
The historic Little Jamaica neighborhood along Eglinton Avenue West is a perfect place to absorb Toronto’s influential reggae history. A massive 1,200-foot mural by artist Adrian Hayles in a parking lot at 1584 Eglinton West showcases famous reggae musicians who lived, recorded, and performed in the area, including: Jackie Mitoo, Ernie Smith, Johnny Osbourne, and Leroy Sibbles, lead singer of the Heptones. The first time I saw this mural, I was struck by its energy; there’s such legacy connected to this giant work of art it's almost like being in the presence of these icons.

401 Richmond St. W, Suite LL108
One of my favorite places for innovative art exhibits and community happenings, Black Artists’ Networks in Dialogue (BAND), focuses on documenting and showcasing Black artistic and cultural contributions with exhibits, pop-up sales, performing arts, and speaker series. Past highlights have included the art exhibit Hair Holds Memories, which featured a collection of mixed media pieces by Nigerian artist Ehiko Odeh that showcased familiar products used for Black hair care against a backdrop of West African textiles.

A summer Garden Concert highlighted the soulful music of Toronto musician Kyla Charter, who mesmerized the audience with velvety vocals while wearing a huge flower crown, and the Black Women in Leadership: Living Library event presented community leaders' success stories combined with small group discussions.

The largest Caribbean carnival in North America, Caribana highlights Toronto’s deep Caribbean roots with a colorful, three-week-long celebration every August. All weekend long, men and women saunter down Toronto streets decked out in feathers, glitter, sequins, and little else. Soca and reggae music blast from stages, and traffic creeps to a standstill as the city heads to the parade that winds down Lakeshore Boulevard. This level of sequin-bedecked revelry is a common sight during carnival season on most islands, but Toronto is the only North American city that mirrors the colorful chaos.

I love how the event takes over the city and makes Toronto feel a little like a big, bustling island.

Originally launched in 2006 by Trinidadian-Canadian filmmaker Frances-Anne Solomon, this annual film festival was created to provide a showcase for filmmakers of the Caribbean and the Caribbean Diaspora to tell their own distinctive stories. The festival, which takes place every September in person and online, treats viewers to shorts and feature-length films highlighting different aspects of Caribbean and African culture, as well as award ceremonies. The fest draws filmmakers from all over the world, but it feels much easier to meet the artists than at bigger festivals. Tickets are available here.

1514 Eglinton Ave. W
Dive into this cultural hub of Jamaican heritage with CDs, records, books, clothing and accessories. This is the place to score hard-to-find rock steady, ska, and roots reggae music, as well as medicinal herbs, natural soaps, essential oils, and incense. The shop also hosts live DJ sets and spoken word events. Don’t be fooled into thinking this is your average music store; I often end up browsing for hours and talking to other music lovers. I consider it more like a music cafe.

779 Bathurst St.
The first time I entered the bookstore was for an impromptu poetry reading that turned into a finger-snapping, hours-long hangout that I’ll never forget. For over 20 years, this bookstore has served as a Black cultural center with book launches, community discussions, and a wide selection of books from across the African and Caribbean diaspora. The store’s website also includes interviews with popular Black authors. Husband and wife owners Miguel San Vincente and Itah Sadu continue to expand beyond books; they launched the Blackhurst Cultural Centre, a non-profit that hosts art exhibits, children's programs, book launches and author discussions.

1541 Eglinton Ave. W
An iconic Little Jamaica eatery that grills jerk meats on the sidewalk until the early morning hours, Rap’s is the place for late-night Jamaican specialties like curry goat, oxtail, and red snapper. For me, a late night of partying or live music is best topped off with a platter of snapper just off the Rap’s grill. There’s always a crowd waiting on the sidewalk after 11 pm so it’s like another mini party.

1510 Queen St. W
Savor the flavors of Nigeria at this popular outpost that dishes up a diasporic fusion of
offerings like kelewele tostones, a take on African spicy plantains smashed in the Puerto Rican tostones style, or miso maffe stew, which layers the classic peanut stew over jackfruit, chickpeas, and eggplant mixed with miso. Chef and owner Victor Ugeweke moved to Toronto from Lagos, Nigeria, where he helped run his mother’s restaurants. He started Afrobeat as a pop-up and is making waves with vegan versions of traditional Nigerian meals, like beef egusi, which swaps out the meat for mushrooms.

774 Danforth Ave.
Haitian street food gets a fun and elevated treatment at this welcoming restaurant. The menu highlights fritay, or fried foods, like shrimp creole, goat, and pork, accompanied by fried dumplings, plantains, and pikliz (spicy coleslaw). The dining spot also supports an ongoing donation supply drive to benefit Haiti. Splashed with vibrant primary colors and art, Boukan feels like a celebration spot. The food is tasty but the experience is even more fun on nights when they feature zouk, afrobeat, and kizomba rhythms.

1417 Dundas St. W
A chic Black-owned boutique hostel in the heart of artsy Dundas Street West, Ode was created when Erica Herbert and her four children opted to turn the building they had owned for years into a modern accommodation with affordable prices. The hotel is ideal for guests who value style and nonconformity. Each room boasts art by local artists and singular decor. The rooftop is adorned with lively murals and wide open spacing. Amenities like room service and front desk service aren’t offered here, so the focus is on the budget-friendly stay and bespoke, hip design.

After a wave of Jamaican immigrants moved to Toronto during the ‘60s, Toronto became the largest producer of reggae music outside of Jamaica. There were recording studios, record stores, and performance spaces all over the city, but mostly centered in the Eglinton West Little Jamaica neighborhood. Cindy Breakspeare was born in Toronto but moved to Jamaica which she represented when she was crowned Miss World at 22 years old. The following year, she gave birth to Damian Marley, the youngest son of Bob Marley.

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